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Monday, 13 February 2012

Wednesday 8th February, UMASS, final day !!!!

Early breakfast and time to do a final sort of the suitcase before the flight tonight (hope it's OK....they seem hot on chraging for abnything over 23kg).

Set off for UMASS at about 9am.  Ken, Whitney and Andrea had already been to the marine lab to collect the sperm from the males so I was there for the novel bit, the fertilisation.  Firts check of the promising females was 10.30am....nothing, then 11.30am.....nothing, then 12.30pm........finally, a female reluctantly gave up her eggs
Ken gently squeezing eggs from a female

Only two of the promising females gave eggs so it was a bit of a dissapointment for the crewe.  Andrea was actually monitoring the effect of PCB's (polychlorinated byphenols....a by product of the electrical manufacturing industry) and so was sub sampling the eggs and crossing them with males exposed to various levels of PCB.

So with a couple of batches fertilised it was time to sit back and wait.  Ken told me it usually takes about 1.5-2 hrs before they know whether the fertilisation has taken place.......by counting the number of cell divisions in the developing embryo.  I was determined to hang on even though I was weary of the flight departure time and the rush our traffic into Boston.

Finallt at about 2.30pm we found what we were looking for, 4 cell devisions in the embryo, a sure sign of fertilisation.  I was very pleased and relieved to see this.

Fertilised American eel egg showing the 4 cell divisions after 2 hrs (Courtesy of Oliveira and Hable 2012

Well, that was it!!!!!  A fond farewell to all at UMASS and I fixed my attention to the journey to the airport.  fortunately the good folks at budget had programmend their address all the way home into the Sat Nav.

The only hiccupp was the final approach to Boston Airport, going underneath the Charles Rivver tunnel to Logan airport...the Sat Nav lost site of the Sat and was sending me off into the city centre!!!!

After a short argument, with voices raised on both sides we agreed to disagree and I headed for the Logan Airport sign.  I breathed a sigh of releif when I spotted the budget sign but the Sat nav was still trying to (unsportingly I felt) throw me off one last time.

It wasn't long before my bags were all checked in and I was awaiting departure.  i had time to reflect on an amazing trip and i must admit to being unable to supress a wry smile at the extent of my adventures.

These thoughts were all the more welcome when I calculated that it was just a 6 hour flight and 3-4 hrs on the train and bus to get home.  I planned to pick up my girls from school at 4.30pm on Thursday, what a re-union that would be. 

Tuesday 7th February, UMASS, Boston, the American Eel !

Up 6.30am to get breakfast and print out some directions.  Got a courtesy bus to the airport then had to wait for a Hire car shuttle to the Budget rental car section, this was 10 mins outside the airport.

Usual thing with rental cars, you think you have booked everything then they start to list the extras you might like:

“Would sir like wheels with this vehicle, we recommend it?”



Not quite this bad but stuff I thought would be standard such as :

Fuel, Roadside assistance, Medical assistance…..was not included.  Fortunately it was quite reasonable.  Decided to purchase the Sat’ Nav’ for an extra £10, it was to be a wise move.

Sat’ Nav’ did me proud on the way down south from the airport, very smooth journey and arrived after 1  hour and 1 minute, as predicted.

The University Of Massachusetts, Dartmouth was a strange looking campus.  The buildings were finished in a bland concrete colour and had a strange “communist block” type look.  That said they appeared to be well resourced and well kitted out inside. 

Was a bit early so took a walk around, it was quite sweet to see the “kids” strutting around.  You forget how this stuff is such a life changing experience…..first time away from home, total independence, sports, relationships, great friendships…..good times.

Found my way to the office of Ken Oliveira, Associate Professor who specialises in the biology of the American eel.  Ken is a larger than life character who greets you like a long lost friend, like only the Americans can do.  After a brief tour of the labs we meet up with Whitney Hable, Assistant professor of Marine Biology and co-researcher on the eel’s project.

The plan was to head out to the marine lab and check the state of the eel brood stock, some of which are expected to spawn.  Quick stop for a Subway sandwich, I had a “footlong” with barbecued chicken, it was to weigh me down for the rest of the day.

At the Marine Lab Ken, Whitney and Andrea (research student) prepared the equipment to check and inject the female eels to induce spawning.  Obviously a well-rehearsed procedure, like a mini production line.
Ken, Andrea (centre) and Whitney process another female American eel
Andrea injecting a female with salmon pituitary extract


Each female was checked for ripeness and injected with a salmon pituitary hormone.  Those that were considered closest to spawning were “biopsied” to check egg quality and brought back to the campus for the final maturation hormone injection, DHP.  This would hopefully cause the females give eggs 16 hours later.

Back at the campus the eggs sampled were measured and checked under the microscope for assessment of condition.  Five females were selected for final injection which is given in 6 small shots, 3 on either side of the body spanning the length of the ovary.
Unfertilised American eel egg, approx 0.8mm in diameter, ready for final maturation (Courtesy of Oliveira and Hable 2012

So that was it, just have to wait until tomorrow.  Jumped in the car and programmed the Sat Nav to get me to the hotel room, it didn’t recognise the address but I managed to get near enough to ask.  Hotel was a bit out the way so it was definitely going to be a “night in”.

Had a lot of admin stuff to do so it worked out well….printing boarding pass, booking train tickets etc.  It was weird to think that this was my last night away, tomorrow it would be checking the female eels at the University, fertilising the eggs then heading home!!!

Tuesday, 7 February 2012

Monday 6th February

Guess what, another travelling day !!!!! 

Said goodbye to my brother at 6.30am (some crazy start times at his school!!).  My sister in-law Maddy dropped me off at the airport on her way to work.

After a couple of cups of coffee and an airport breakfast it was buckle up and read the safety card again.  I always feel obliged to know matter how many times I have flown. 

Thankfully it was a relatively short flight, 1 hour 25 mins.  I worked out this leaves me only one more flight….home.  Looking forward to seeing my girls, miss them a lot.

Everything went fine, collected bags and waited outside the airport for the courtesy bus.  What was supposed to be a 15 min wait turned out to be 1 hour and there was a biting Boston wind to contend with.  Mind you, they say that this is a very unusually mild winter, normally there would be snow drifts and blizzards. 

The courtesy bus took us way North out of town but fortunately there was a Mall and a couple of restaurants nearby.  Nice Hotel, big rooms and good value.

After a stroll around the Mall, Dick’s Sports Store is awesome, I had a burger at Buffalo Wings Restaurant and was spoilt for choice to watch the NBA or College basketball on one of the many big screens.

Back to the hotel and attempt to re-pack my fat suitcase before going to bed .  Looking forward to tomorrow, visit to University of Massachusetts.

Weekend 4th and 5th February

Got up around 11am on Saturday still in a zombie like state but was greeted with a large “bucket” of Starbucks coffee, Rob had picked one up on his way back from work (he teaches in a nearby by private school).

After the coffee had pumped around my veins and I was more or less fully awake we all headed out to the nearby historic Town of Occaquan.  I just love the America streets and Towns, there’s just something unique about the layout and the look.  It was early February and really should have been bitingly cold with snow, whilst you wouldn’t put your shorts on it was really quite mild.

We had breakfast in a quaint little red brick cafĂ©.  It was about 200 years old which is ancient in the states.  Occaquan was an important native Indian settlement where the Potomac and Occaquan rivers converge originally providing a good source of food and travel for the settlers.
Main Street Occaquan


We then headed just down the road to the Occaquan National Wildlife Reserve.  Run by the US Fish and Wildlife this wetland reserve of about 650 acres is a former military testing site but now home to countless species of rare birds plus reptiles, amphibians and aquatic mammals as well as numerous deer.  Although it was relatively quiet on the animal front it was spectacular scenery in the sharp February air.  The confluence of the Potomac and the Occaquan was huge, it looked like a massive lake and must have been over 1.5 miles wide.
My brother Rob and his son Ronan on the banks of the Occaquan/Potomac river


After a couple of miles stroll around the park, where Maddy pointed out various Indian artefacts on the groud (arrow heads etc…..it’s her job) we went home to chill.  That night Rob, Ronan and I went to see “The Lady in Black” at the cinema, makes you jump a lot but predictably so…..good though.

Take out Mexican for tea and a hefty dose of Laurel and Hardy for the evening (tolerated well by Maddy), great day.



Sunday was an equally late rise, out the door by 11.00, had to drop off Ronan at his drama class.  Time for me to do a bit of souvenir hunting at Target, a sort of bargain store.

Back home by 3pm and managed to get a bit of work done then we headed out for tea.  Superbowl was on so the restaurant was very quiet, had a meat special….ribs, pork, chicken…mmmmmm.

In the evening we all sat down to watch JAWS, possibly my favourite film, timeless.  Everyone pretty tired so to bed by 11pm, found it hard to sleep, I think because of the knowledge that I was moving on again.
My brother's house (in the middle), Fairfax City, Virginia

Monday, 6 February 2012

Friday 3rd February - Moving on

Up and out by 7am and a short drive to drop off the hire car at Christchurch Airport.  It’s been a good car, if a little heavy on juice.  All checked in fine and waiting board on time for 9am.  Unfortunately there was no direct flight from Christchurch so I had to go to Auckland first.

Couple of hours wait and then it was settle down for the long-haul to Los Angeles.  This was a Qantas flight and well serviced with pretty good room in your seat.  Fortunately there were still quite a few movies that I hadn’t seen which helped to pass the long 11 hour flight.  If I tried to read I somehow got real sleepy after a short while, but then couldn’t sleep….so a movie marathon it was.

Got to LA without too much hassle and then it was a very quick turnaround to collect my bags and get through immigration and customs as it was only 1 hour before my connecting flight to Washington DC.  My younger Brother, Rob and his family, live in DC so it was nice to be able to take the opportunity to say Hi for the weekend before moving on to Boston.

At LA airport I was pulled aside by customs who wanted to talk to me about the number of countries I had visited (Taiwan, Hong Kong, Australia, and New Zealand) before entering the USA.  It was one of those moments when you know you have nothing to hide but you start to worry about the plausibility of your story.  The more I explained about eels and my trip the more it sounded like I was making it up……then you start to picture yourself in a prison cell for a few days before your story cab be corroborated.  Fortunately the chap seemed genuinely interested and waived me through with no problem.

Back on board another plane and a restless 5 hours (I was surprised at how long it took us to fly across the states) to DC.  I was very glad to get off the plane.

My brother and his son, Ronan met me at the airport and whisked me the 30 minute drive back to the house.  It was great to catch up with brother, nephew and my sister in Law, Maddy.

Being a Friday, everybody was weary so we had some take-out food, chatted a bit and all went to bed.

After 24 hours on the road and precious little sleep, I was dead to the world by the time my head hit the pillow.


Wednest 1st and Thursday 2nd February 2012

Otaga University is just a stone’s throw from Dunedin Octagon City Centre, about a 5 minute drive from my motel.  I had arranged to meet Dr. Mark Lokman, a senior lecturer and researcher at the Department of Zoology.  Mark is a specialist in Endocrinology, particularly the mechanisms for fish reproduction and particularly eels.  Mark studied eel breeding with the Japanese and is actually married to a Japanese lady, although he tells me that he met her in a Sushi restaurant in Dunedin.

The Zoology main building is an old redbrick structure but has been expanded hugely with some very modern offices, labs and lecture rooms.  Bang on 9.30 I turned up to Marks office and we had a coffee and discussion regarding my visit and the work I am involved in back home.
Zooology building


After this Mark gave me a short tour of the lab and breeding facilities and introduced me to his students.  The two chaps working on Eels were Sean and Matt.  After this initial visit it was a nice long chat in the coffee room with Sean and Matt about Eels and fisheries in general.
The main aquatic wet lab

The Mark had arranged something really special for me, we were going to examine a mature female New Zealand Short Fin eel and take a biopsy of her eggs to check the stage of development.  So Matt took out this large “fat female” who was surprisingly docile even without anaesthetic. She was carefully placed on a damp towel and her eyes covered to keep her calm.  It always amazes me how covering the eyes seems to calm down all animals!!!!!!  I think we should try this with troublesome members of society…….oh wait we have it already, it’s called pepper spray.

Matt then inserted a catheter attached to a small syringe into the reproductive vent and proceeded to extract a few eggs which we placed under the low power microscope for inspection.

                                                                                sampling eggs from ripe female

This was really cool and apparently critical to the final maturation injection.  There is something like 10 egg development stages identified for eel eggs and if you don’t get the right stage then the final maturation injection will not work and the eggs will be non-viable.  Fortunately for us the eggs were at about stage 5-6 (as determined by the number of oil droplets in the egg) and so she was ready for the final injection later that night.

After a late lunch and further discussion it was time to leave the guys to it and I was invited to return the following day when the eggs would be ready for “stripping” precisely 10 hours after the final injection (nature is a marvellous thing).

Mark had said the Dunedin Museum was worth a look and also that I should check out the worlds steepest street a few blocks away.  The museum was indeed very good, a mixture of natural and cultural history with some really modern displays. 
Excellent Dunedin museum

The world’s steepest street, Baldwin Street was amazing, it made you feel dizzy just looking to the top, it was scary, I certainly wouldn’t have taken the hire car up there.  Just then someone took a big four wheel drive thing up the hill, it was like one of those cars from the film “Mad Max” it struggled, engine racing, to a stop about 20 yards from the top.  Then the engine started and roared and the car crept over the top in a huge cloud of black smoke…..awesome.


                                                                  Baldwin Street

Went home via Countdown, the big supermarket chain, and got some nice bread and garlic sausage for tea.  The internet was really good in my room so I was able to do a lot of work and admin stuff without interruption. 

The last hour of the evening I like to stroll downtown with my book by Michael Brown (the life of an eel fisherman) and read a few pages whilst sipping a cold beer.


A really good day, roll on tomorrow.





Thursday 2nd February

Had to be at the University for 8.30am so we could check the male fish for ripeness and strip and store the sperm ready for the fertilisation around mid-day some time.

Matt and Mark got straight into it, lifting all the males (easy to tell as they are usually a good 5th or quarter of the size of the females) out of the tank and into a salt water solution in a bucket with a little bit of clove oil for anaesthetic.  The anaesthetised eels were all laid out together on a damp towel and just left there while the process began.  This was amusing to me as if you had done this with salmon the second fish to be processed would likely not have recovered and certainly the third fourth and 5th etc. would have perished.  I knew, like most people that eels can move overland but mark said that they can stay out of water for hours as long as they are moist 9they can absorb oxygen through the skin).

Each male was gently squeezed along the abdomen and a clean pipette was used to collect the neat sperm which was store in a small plastic tube with a lid called an eppendorf tube.

When all the males were done (about 20 !!!) we took the tubes, stored on iced, up to tone of the labs to check for motility.  This was basically the same as we do with our salmon.  A small amount of sperm is added to a clean slide and then to activate the sperm, salt water was added.  The slide was then quickly focussed under the X 10 lens on a high power microscope and an estimate made of the % of motile sperm (i.e. those actively swimming around trying to find and egg).  It was surprisingly low on average, around 10%.
Mark checking sperm motility


With the sperm samples ready we prepared to strip the female at 12.00 mid-day.  The signs were good, she was enlarged and some eggs were dripping from her.  Matt and Sean dried her off and each held and “end” whilst they lifted her up so that the vent was directly over the stripping bowl.  The crude process of manual stripping involves gently squeezing the abdomen until the eggs physically run out of the vent, too soft and they won’t move, too hard and you can damage organs.
                                                       Matt and Sean stripping eggs from the female

Fortunately the eggs seemed to come out pretty easily, a sort of opaque gelatinous goo with the eggs just visible at about just over 1mm in diameter.  As with salmon eggs the sperm vials were added and mixed in before the sperm were activated with water and started swimming for the micropyle (hole in the egg). 

This was really neat and something I had not seen before and what I was here to learn about.  You can read as many papers and text books as you like but until you see the actual process for yourself you don’t really become proficient.  Sean was not too impressed with the way these eggs were developing, he reckoned they were a bit early.  You can tell by the rate of water absorption and the time of the first few cell divisions (looking under low power) as too whether the eggs will survive or not.

So after lunch we decided to have one more go and this time I got to help strip the female which was good experience for me.  Sea was too confident about the quality of the eggs though.  The eggs were put into a basic aerated incubator (the good ones float and the bad ones sink)and left overnight.
Matt and I stripping the remaining eggs

Sean told me that the eggs would be shipped up North to Nelson so that they could have a go at rearing them through to larvae.  Ironically it was the same shellfish hatchery that I had visited 10 years ago on holiday.
fertilised eggs in incubator


So that was it for me, after much hand shaking and many a heartfelt thank you it was time to move on.  Not for the first time on this trip I went away marvelling at the kindness of total strangers and how they give up their time to help you.

Well, I knew it was going to be a long drive up to Christchurch (about 4 hrs. without a stop) so I hit the road pretty much straight away.

It was a cracking drive again but this time I was more focussed on reaching my motel before it got dark and before the kids went to bed back home, this is always important to me and rounds the day off nicely.  I never feel that good if a day goes by without speaking to home.

The journey was very smooth and I got to really like the New Zealand talk radio….. I think the whole four hours of the show was taken up by people phoning in competing for the best “drop you kids off at school a day early (before term time)…story”.  Got to my Motel on the edge of the Central Business District without error by following my hand scribbled notes and a rather vague tourist map, who needs Sat Nav.


Just time to chuck my stuff in the room and skype home.  The Motel manager was careful to explain about the wireless internet and that the signal was not too good and prone to drop out which actually turned out to mean that it didn’t work!!!!  This was the most annoying thing about my trip, I had carefully chosen my hotel destinations so that they had good and preferably free internet access.  This was so important for communicating with the next port of call, keeping up with finances and bookings and also keeping in touch with home.  I would say that 50% of establishments either had “broken” servers or misled you with their claims of “free Wi Fi” – i.e. it’s free for the first 20 mins or 5mb, whichever comes first.  This really bugged me as it was one of the most important criteria for me.  I wonder how people used to carry out long term travel before the internet and mobile phones, at the very least I could text.

Evidence of the earthquake in February was all around, in fact the old Church across the street from the motel was ¾’s demolished.  Walking around you could see strange empty lots where the grass had grown over and it look like a new building plot, obviously where a house had been pulled down some months earlier.  It was strange how some properties were clearly showing the worse for wear, with great cracks and then heaps of scaffolding and huge supports all over, whilst next door was fine!!  You couldn’t help feeling sorry for the poor folk who’d lost everything and the fact that re-building was taking so long, the whole of the central business district was still fenced off to pedestrians and weekly aftershocks were still happening.  Still everybody seemed used to it somehow, I guess they had no choice but to carry on with their daily lives.


Well, it had been a good spell in New Zealand and I must admit to being a little sad, tomorrow it was off to the USA and the last phase of my journey.

Wednesday, 1 February 2012

Monday 30th and Tuesday 31st january 2012

After a fond farewell to Caroline and the kids on Monday morning I started the long journey down South to Dunedin.

I had an unexepected upgrade to a rather plush looking Hyundai hire car which combined with the spectacular scenery, made the driving a complete pleasure.  I was aiming for a Town called Ashburton, which was about 7 and half hours from Nelson, I felt the full 11 hour journey to Dunedin was too much for me in one day.

After about 3 and a half hours I stopped in Kaikoura, a small town famous  for whale watching, for a refreshing cup of coffee.
Kaikoura


Most of the road was right on the edge of the coast and provided the most amazing backdrop.  I don’t think the pictures really do it justice.  As you travel along you are struck by the shear scale of the wilderness areas.
Vast fruit plantation

Stunning east coast views, visible for 3 hours



By 7.30pm I had reached my motel ready for a good meal.  I decided to cook for myself to save a few bucks but in my rush to get to the shops before they closed missed a few ingredients for my Chicken Stroganoff.  It wasn’t my best (using tomato ketchup instead of puree) but it was welcome.  The room was good but yet again I was met with disappointment regarding the internet access, despite a couple of hours of trying neither myself or the manager could get me hooked up to the WiFI. This was disappointing as the internet is my lifeline to my family, work and for this blog and I carefully choose the hotels based on access to it, preferably for free.

Next morning I rose early and cooked my own sausage butties (mmmm!!), did my washing and packed up my stuff to move on.  Meanwhile the Motel manager was still trying solve the internet problem and by 9am he had resorted to unplugging and rebooting all his routers.  Low and behold, it worked so I had an hour to Skype home, do my accounts and check directions to the next stop.

The next 4 hours from Asburton to Dunedin seemed to go a little slower that the day before despite being a good bit shorter but I think this was mostly fatigue.  By 1.30pm I was in Dundedin, a Southern city a lot bigger than I had expected with a city centre neatly laid out in a series of streets in the shape of an octagon.
Smack bang city centre of the Octagon


I found my way to the motel easily by following the street plan.  It was an excellent location and clean, all at a very reasonable price. It’s always a relief to get where you are going to after a long journey, nothing more stressful than driving around after a long day when you cant find the right street but you know it’s nearby.

I dumped my stuff and explore the city for a couple of hours.  For tea I decided to go to the supermarket and get some cheese and ham and buy some fresh bread to make my own sandwiches, very nice.
My Motel, my room top left with balcony!!!

After an evening stroll I returned to the room to complete a few admin tasks and contact Dr Mark Lokman of the University of Ontago to confirm the details of tomorrows visit.  Really looking forward to that, mark has some eels that he thinks will spawn!!!!

I retired to bed with book for a good nights sleep.